- #Philips ehome infrared receiver how to
- #Philips ehome infrared receiver zip file
- #Philips ehome infrared receiver code
- #Philips ehome infrared receiver Pc
- #Philips ehome infrared receiver tv
The USB receiver is a Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0471:060c Philips (or NXP) Consumer Infrared Transceiver (HP)īus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hubīus 008 Device 002: ID 046d:c05a Logitech, Inc. The remote is a Hauppauge tveeprom: Hauppauge model 74541, rev C5A3, serial# 4029126085, HVR-1600 I can get the remote to talk to Ubuntu with IRW, but the listener is not talking to MythTV. I can use all the recording features in MythTV, just remote problem. I have tried a number of times to get the remote to work with no luck. The eHome MCE remote sends two alternating commands for PowerToggle, so both are defined as OK.I have been running MythTV on a Ubuntu 14.0.4 computer for about 2 years now. In this quick n’ dirty version the IR codes are hard coded into the program.
#Philips ehome infrared receiver code
For my code I have renamed the folder from IRremote to tiny_IRremote so I can use both the original library and the ATTiny version.
#Philips ehome infrared receiver zip file
Extract the zip file and place it in the arduino/libraries folder. The ATTiny uses different timer registers compared to the ATMega used in the standard arduino.
#Philips ehome infrared receiver how to
A good tutorial on how to do this can be found here.Īlso a different version of the standard IRRemote library is needed. Summarized, the following pins were used:Īll that is left is the programming, to program an ATTiny from the Arduino environment a couple of items are required:įirst of all support for ATTiny micro controllers needs to be added to the Arduino IDE.
#Philips ehome infrared receiver Pc
An easier solution was to use the +5V from an unused USB header, as a BIOS setting allows it to have power even when the PC is turned off. A solution would be to tap into the 5VSB (Standby Power) lead on the ATX header, but this requires cutting and tapping into the ATX cable from the PSU. Obviously the +5 signal from PW+ cannot be used, the micro draws enough power to pull it to ground. On my Gigabyte GA-A75M-UD2H the header is as follows:Īll that is left from the inputs is the 5V signal to power the circuit. The PW- pin can be used as a general ground, as this is common with the whole motherboard’s ground. On the schematic this is referred to as PSW_C, as it is wired to the collector of the 2N2222 transistor. To start the PC the PW+ 5V signal needs to be pulled to ground. My motherboard names the power switch pins PW+ and PW. To function the board only requires three inputs (JP2): +5V, PSW_C and GND:Įvery ATX motherboard contains a header which contains pins for the LEDs and power and reset switches. The TSOP38238 is a pretty convenient module and converts the IR pulses into something the micro can use and is compatible the standard IR library available for the Arduino programming environment.
The parts used for this “quick n’ dirty” version are: This is still an extra step, and could be “streamlined”.Īfter the thousandth time of standing up and powering on the PC I decided to do something about it! A simple microcontroller and IR receiver should be able to take over my job.
by using the Yatse app that supports WoL (Wake up on LAN). Lazy as ever, we found different solutions to power the PC on without having to press the actual power button. This remote/receiver is probably the best supported one around, works absolutely flawless, but as said would not power on my HTPC. The receiver is a standard Philips eHome compatible receiver as introduced with Windows MCE in 2002. However, the setup has one big disadvantage: No mater the BIOS settings tried, I could not get it to turn on via the infrared remote receiver used.
#Philips ehome infrared receiver tv
Also the Lian-Li PC-C37 case makes it look pretty good in the TV unit. The hardware (AMD A6-3500 from 2012…) isn’t anything fancy but its powerful enough to decode pretty much anything thrown at it. In the living room, a PC running openELEC powers our home theater.